Istanbul
Two continents, one city. Sultanahmet holds the Big Five sites, but Istanbul's better neighbourhoods - Cihangir's cafes, Karakoy's waterfront, Kadikoy's street food on the Asian side - are where the city actually lives.
I arrived in Istanbul on Turkish Airlines Business Class for a long weekend and made the classic first-timer mistake: I assumed Sultanahmet was the only place to stay. It worked - I walked to Hagia Sophia in eight minutes - but every other tourist was doing the same, the touts grabbed at my arm, the restaurants were inflated, and the neighbourhood emptied after dark.
If I went back I would base myself differently. Sultanahmet is fine for a short trip focused on the Big Five sites, but Istanbul has far better neighbourhoods for food, nightlife and actual local life: Cihangir for bohemian cafes, Karakoy for waterfront bars, and Kadikoy on the Asian side for cheaper hotels and the best street food in the city. The Bosphorus ferries tie it all together.
Getting there
Istanbul Airport (IST) is the main hub, about 45km northwest - the M11 metro and the Havaist airport buses both run into the city, and a taxi is quicker but pricier. Sabiha Gokcen (SAW) on the Asian side handles the low-cost carriers and is a 90-minute transfer from the European centre, so factor that in when comparing fares. If you are connecting rather than staying, see my guide to connecting at Istanbul Airport; for routes into Turkey by origin, see the Turkey country guide.
From within Turkey
Istanbul is the hub for the whole country - here is how it connects.
| From | Method | Journey time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cappadocia | Flight (to Kayseri/Nevsehir) | ~1h 15m | Turkish and Pegasus fly several times daily; then a shuttle to Goreme for the cave hotels and balloons. |
| Antalya | Flight | ~1h 15m | The Mediterranean coast and the gateway to the Turquoise Coast. |
| Izmir (Ephesus) | Flight | ~1h 10m | For Ephesus and the Aegean - Selcuk and Kusadasi are an hour on from Izmir. |
| Bodrum | Flight | ~1h 20m | The Aegean resort coast; the season runs May to October. |
Getting around
Istanbul's transport is extensive and the Istanbulkart contactless card works on all of it - trams, metro, funiculars, buses and the Bosphorus ferries. The T1 tram from Sultanahmet through Karakoy to Kabatas is the tourist backbone, and the ferry across to Kadikoy on the Asian side is the best-value 20 minutes in the city, atmospheric and cheap. The city is hilly and spread over two continents, so lean on the ferries and the tram rather than trying to walk between districts.
What to see
The Big Five and the views, mostly walkable from a Sultanahmet base.
Hagia Sophia
The 1,500-year-old basilica-turned-mosque, layered with Byzantine mosaics and Ottoman calligraphy. A guide is worth it to make sense of what you are looking at.
The Blue Mosque
Across the square from Hagia Sophia, the cascade of domes and six minarets, lined with the Iznik tiles that give it its name. Free, with a dress code and prayer-time closures.
Topkapi Palace
The Ottoman sultans' palace above the Bosphorus - courtyards, the harem (separate ticket) and the treasury. Allow a half-day and go early.
Basilica Cistern
The atmospheric underground Roman water cistern beneath the old city, with its forest of columns and the Medusa heads. Cool, dim and worth the queue.
The Grand Bazaar & the Bosphorus
The covered market's 4,000 shops, then a Bosphorus cruise or the cheap commuter ferry for the skyline from the water - the two views of Istanbul you came for.
Neighbourhoods & hotels
Where you stay in Istanbul matters more than in most cities. Pick a neighbourhood for detail and hotel picks.
The historic core - walk to Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi, the Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar. Touristy, with touts and inflated restaurants, and it empties after dark, but unbeatable for a short, sights-first trip. Sirkeci, just north, gives the same access on quieter streets - my pick of the two.
The hillside above Karakoy - residential, bohemian, full of cafes where locals sit with books for hours. A ten-minute walk from the Galata Tower and a tram ride from Sultanahmet, with steep streets (good shoes) but a calm vibe. Restaurants here have no touts and run 20-30% cheaper than the tourist core.
The waterfront revival zone near the Galata Tower - trendy restaurants, design hotels and nightlife, right on the European shore. Polished and central, with the ferries and the tram on the doorstep. Good for a couples' stay.
Across the water on the Asian side - cheaper hotels, better street food and local markets, and barely a tour group in sight. The ferry to the European side takes 20 minutes and is half the experience. The value pick, and the best base for a longer stay.
Bosphorus-front and less touristy than Sultanahmet - a seafood market, football culture, and a mix of palace-grade luxury and budget hostels. Good if you want the waterfront and local life over the historic core.
Worth the trip
The experiences worth booking in Istanbul.
Blue Mosque & Hagia Sophia guided tour
Skip the line and get the Byzantine-Ottoman history explained - about an hour. I tried to DIY this and regretted it; the guide made sense of the mosaics.
Check availability →Kadikoy food tour (Asian side)
A four-hour walk through Kadikoy's markets and eateries, sampling 10-plus dishes on Istanbul's Asian side - the food the tourist core never shows you.
Check availability →Bosphorus sunset cruise
The skyline, the palaces and the bridges from the water as the light goes - the classic Istanbul evening, on a small-group yacht rather than a packed ferry.
Check availability →More on Istanbul
Tested routes
2024Turkish Airlines Business Class: Birmingham to Istanbul (A321neo)Excellent→Good to know
Two airports
IST (main, European side) and Sabiha Gokcen (SAW, Asian side, low-cost). SAW is a 90-minute transfer from the European centre - cheap fares there can cost you the saving in transfer time.
Istanbulkart
Buy an Istanbulkart on arrival - it works on the tram, metro, funiculars, buses and the Bosphorus ferries. The single card for everything.
e-Visa
UK, EU and Irish visitors need a Turkish e-Visa applied for online before travel (a few minutes, around USD 50). US and Australian passports enter visa-free. Do it before you fly.
Take the ferry
The commuter ferry to Kadikoy is 20 minutes, costs almost nothing, and gives you the skyline from the water - do not pay for a tourist cruise just for the view.
Tap water
Do not drink the tap water - bottled is cheap everywhere, and locals avoid it too.
Tipping
10-15% in restaurants, and tip in cash - Turkish tipping culture is cash-based, for waiters, taxis and hotel porters.