Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires rewards a few days minimum. The neighbourhoods are distinct enough that where you stay shapes your experience in a way that matters. Two airports with completely different roles - know which one you are using before you book anything. Safety requires awareness but should not deter you. And the food and culture are genuinely exceptional.
This is a big, complex, occasionally chaotic South American city with world-class restaurants, a tango culture that is still very much alive, and the kind of European-influenced architecture that catches you off guard when you turn a corner. I spent extended time here exploring Recoleta, Palermo, San Telmo, La Boca, and the centre, and came away thinking Buenos Aires deserves more time than most people give it.
Getting there
International flights arrive at Ezeiza (EZE), 45 minutes southwest of the city centre. This is a proper distance - not a quick transfer. Pre-book your transport or use the comparison in my Ezeiza transfer guide. For full routing options from your home country, see the Argentina country guide.
Regional flights (Santiago, Sao Paulo, Montevideo) and all domestic flights use Aeroparque (AEP), just 15 minutes north of the city centre. Much more convenient. See my Aeroparque transfer guide.
If you are connecting between international and domestic flights, you will need to transfer between EZE and AEP. Tienda Leon runs a shuttle between the two airports (about 80 minutes, ~$13 USD). Allow plenty of time.
From within Argentina
Buenos Aires is the hub for the rest of the country - almost all of it by air.
| From | Method | Journey time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mendoza | Domestic flight | ~2h | Aerolineas Argentinas and LATAM. Wine country and gateway to the Andes. |
| Iguazu Falls | Domestic flight | ~2h | Aerolineas Argentinas daily. No realistic overland alternative - the bus takes 18 hours. |
| Bariloche | Domestic flight | ~2h 15m | Gateway to the Lake District and northern Patagonia. Flybondi budget option available. |
| Ushuaia | Domestic flight | ~3h 30m | The end of the world. Patagonia gateway. Aerolineas Argentinas and LATAM. |
| Santiago (Chile) | Flight from AEP | ~2h 20m | LATAM operates this regional route from Aeroparque, not Ezeiza. Short hop across the Andes. |
Getting around
The Subte (metro) covers central areas well and is the fastest way to move between neighbourhoods. Six lines, trains every few minutes during the day. You will need a SUBE card - a rechargeable transit card that works on buses and the metro. Buy one at a kiosk or metro station as soon as you arrive (around ARS $490). You cannot pay cash on buses.
Buses are extensive but the route system takes time to learn. Google Maps handles Buenos Aires bus routing well. Taxis are cheap but scams happen - rigged meters, counterfeit change, and circuitous routes. Uber and Cabify work well and give you app-based pricing, though they operate in a legal grey area.
Walking is excellent in Recoleta, Palermo, and San Telmo. Buenos Aires is a walkable city if you pick the right neighbourhood as your base.
Neighbourhoods & hotels
Where you stay in Buenos Aires matters more than in most cities. Pick a neighbourhood for detail and hotel picks.
Buenos Aires' most elegant neighbourhood. Grand Haussmann-style architecture, tree-lined avenues, world-class restaurants, and the famous cemetery where Eva Peron is buried. It feels more European than South American. Safe, walkable, and central enough to reach everywhere else easily. I stayed in Recoleta and it set the right tone for the trip - quiet streets at night, serious coffee in the morning, and the kind of restaurants where you want to linger.
Leafy, trendy, and the city's nightlife and dining heart - Palermo Soho and Hollywood. A younger crowd, great cafes and bars, slightly further from the historic centre.
The old city - cobblestones, antique markets, and the Sunday feria, with tango in the streets. Budget-friendly and atmospheric, a little rougher at the edges.
The business and transport centre, handy for short stays and the Subte, but quiet at night and weekends. Functional rather than charming.
Worth the trip
Day trips and experiences worth the time, with availability.
Colonia del Sacramento day trip
A ferry ride across the Rio de la Plata to this UNESCO-listed Uruguayan town. Cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, and a laid-back atmosphere that contrasts brilliantly with Buenos Aires. Full day recommended.
Check availability →Recoleta Cemetery tour
More than just Eva Peron's tomb. A guided tour explains the extraordinary architecture and the stories behind the mausoleums. One of the most unusual cultural experiences in South America.
Check availability →La Boca walking tour
Caminito, the colourful houses, Boca Juniors stadium, and the working-class history behind the paint. Go with a guide and during the daytime. Not a neighbourhood for wandering alone after dark.
Check availability →Tango dinner show
Dinner and a classic tango show in Buenos Aires. The choreography is excellent and the food is better than most dinner-show combinations. A good introduction to tango without the tourist-trap feeling.
Check availability →Tigre Delta boat tour
Just outside Buenos Aires, a network of rivers and islands with homes built on stilts. A boat tour shows you a completely different side of the region. The Puerto de Frutos market is worth a browse.
Check availability →More on Buenos Aires
Tested routes
2024LATAM Economy: Buenos Aires to SantiagoAdequate→Good to know
Safety
Buenos Aires is safe with normal urban awareness. Specific risks: taxi scams (rigged meters, counterfeit change), phone theft on buses, and the "mustard scam" (someone squirts condiment on you while an accomplice robs you). Do not wander La Boca after dark. Spread valuables across pockets.
Currency
The Argentine peso (ARS) is volatile. The "blue dollar" parallel exchange rate gives significantly more pesos per dollar than the official rate. Carry USD as backup. ATMs work but charge high fees and limit withdrawals. Credit cards are widely accepted in tourist areas.
SUBE card
Essential for buses and the Subte (metro). Buy at kiosks or metro stations for around ARS $490. You cannot pay cash on buses. Board at the front door, tap your card, exit at the back.
Language
Spanish is essential outside tourist restaurants and hotels. Google Translate works well for menus and signs. Even basic Spanish goes a long way. English is spoken in upscale Recoleta and Palermo establishments.
Food
Steak is the headline, and it deserves it. La Cabrera in Palermo is the classic recommendation. But the Italian influence is strong - pizza, pasta, and gelato are everywhere and genuinely good. Empanadas for quick meals. Malbec by the glass.
Connectivity
Buy a local SIM. Free WiFi is available in hotels and many cafes. Mobile data is useful for Uber/Cabify and Google Maps. Coverage is good in the city centre.