Perth
Australia's most isolated capital, and a genuine surprise - beaches a train ride from the city, a strong food and wine scene, and the relaxed Aussie vibe without the east-coast crowds. It is also where the Kangaroo Route lands.
Perth genuinely surprised me. Yes, it is Australia's most isolated capital, but it is anything but boring - stunning beaches within train distance, a strong food and wine scene, and the familiar relaxed Aussie vibe without the tourist numbers of the east coast. I stayed right in the CBD and it was the perfect base: walkable to the main sights, with the train station for easy runs out to Fremantle and the coast.
Most visitors meet Perth as the Kangaroo Route gateway - the QF9 from London lands here before the onward hop east. Give it a couple of days either side of that flight: the city centre is compact and car-free friendly, and the best of Perth (Fremantle, Rottnest, the Swan Valley, the beaches) is a short train, ferry or drive away.
Getting there
Perth Airport (PER) is about 12km east of the city, and the Airport Line train now runs into the CBD in around 20 minutes for a few dollars - the easy way in, avoiding the taxi fare. As the Kangaroo Route landing point, Perth is where many long-haul arrivals from Europe touch down before connecting onward. For the bus, train and taxi options compared see my Perth airport transfers guide; for routes into Australia by origin, see the Australia country guide.
From within Australia
Perth is a long way from everywhere - here is how it connects to the rest of the country.
| From | Method | Journey time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Melbourne | Flight (QF10 sector two) | ~4h | The QF10 continues Perth to Melbourne after the London nonstop. Reviewed. |
| Sydney | Flight | ~4h 05m | Multiple daily on Qantas, Virgin and Jetstar; longer than London to Athens. |
| Adelaide | Flight | ~3h 10m | The nearest mainland capital, and still a three-hour flight. |
| Margaret River | Drive | ~3h | South to the wine region and surf coast - a hire car is the way. |
Getting around
Perth's train network radiates from the CBD, which makes the centre an easy car-free base - the line out to Fremantle takes about 30 minutes, and the coast is reachable by rail too. Around the city centre the free CAT buses loop the main stops, and the SmartRider card covers everything. Beyond the city, a hire car opens up the Swan Valley and the drive south to Margaret River; Rottnest Island is a ferry from Fremantle or the city.
What to see
The headline sights, most reachable on foot or a short train hop.
Kings Park & Botanic Garden
One of the largest inner-city parks in the world, on a rise above the Swan River with the best skyline view in Perth. Free, and a easy walk from the CBD.
Elizabeth Quay & the Bell Tower
The redeveloped riverfront with bars, the ferry jetty and the glass Bell Tower - the natural place to start and end a day in the centre.
Cottesloe Beach
The classic Perth beach, a short train ride out: white sand, a Norfolk-pine promenade and a sunset that justifies the trip on its own.
Fremantle
The 19th-century convict-built port town 30 minutes south by train - markets, the prison, and some of WA's best food. Deserves more than a day trip.
The Swan River foreshore
Walk or cycle the river paths between the CBD, East Perth and the quay; the light on the water late in the day is the city at its best.
Neighbourhoods & hotels
Where you stay in Perth matters more than in most cities. Pick a neighbourhood for detail and hotel picks.
Everything within walking distance - the Bell Tower, Elizabeth Quay and Kings Park - and the train network radiates from here, so it is the logical base for a short or car-free stay. Walk to the sights, slip back to the hotel between activities, and ride the line to Fremantle in 30 minutes.
Along the Swan River's north bank - water views, riverside walking paths and a quieter feel than the centre, with more apartment-style hotels for longer stays. Still a walk from the city when you want it, and next to the Crown entertainment complex at Burswood.
Just north of the CBD but a different world - the cultural district, home to the WA Museum and Art Gallery, independent restaurants and the city's best live-music and bar scene. Lively at night, walkable to the centre.
The historic port town 30 minutes south by train - convict-built architecture, weekend markets, and some of WA's best restaurants, at a completely different pace. Boutique hotels in characterful buildings rather than glass towers, and the ferry to Rottnest leaves from here.
Worth the trip
The trips worth booking out of Perth.
Swan Valley food & wine day trip
Perth's wine country is half an hour from the city - wineries, breweries, a chocolate factory and long lunches. An easy, indulgent day out.
Check availability →Rottnest Island bike & ferry
The car-free island off Fremantle: cycle the loop between beaches and bays, and meet the quokkas. The bike-and-ferry package is the way to do it.
Check availability →More on Perth
Tested routes
2024Qantas QF9 economy: London to Perth (the 17-hour nonstop)Good→2024Qantas QF10 economy: Perth to Melbourne (sector two)Good→Good to know
Getting in from the airport
The Airport Line train runs into the CBD in ~20 minutes for a few dollars - easier and cheaper than a taxi. SmartRider card or contactless.
It is genuinely remote
Perth is closer to Singapore than to Sydney. Internal flights east are 3-4 hours, so plan Western Australia as its own trip rather than a quick add-on.
Trains to the coast
You do not need a car for the city - the rail network reaches Fremantle and the coast, and the free CAT buses loop the centre.
Sun
The WA sun is fierce even in the shoulder seasons - factor 50, a hat and water, especially on the beaches and at Rottnest.
Visa
UK, EU, Irish and US visitors need an ETA or eVisitor applied for online before travel - quick and low-cost, but do it before you fly.
Tipping
Not expected - service is included and wages are high. Round up a taxi or a great meal, that is it.